Can irises grow in water

I have one lovely clump of these blooming in quite dry land surrounding my small pond which, being concrete, does not have a moist pondside area. The blooms are absolutely lovely — mine are a cloudlike blue which serendipitously exactly matches the flowers of the Iris laevigata growing next to it.

Mine on dry land grows only about 18" tall — but the one in my large pond grows stupendously. I put a small pot of it in last fall which immediately got knocked to the very depths of the pond and forgotten. I assumed all I would see was leaf tips — but it has been blooming merrily for the past 10 days. Obviously these babies can take deeper water than the books recommend. The best looking clump I have right now, though, is growing in dry-ish soil in my raised bed garden.

However, they are recommended as pond plants and as soon as mine are done blooming I am going to divide one of the clumps and give it a try. I love the grasslike foliage, the various shades of blue, purple and lavender that they bloom in - and the fact that they will grow in partial shade means that the end of my pond which gets shade from the apple tree will finally have something growing in it.

All of these iris are hardy from zones 4 through 9 — Siberian iris may even grow in zone 3. All I do with mine in fall is lower them to the bottom of the pond, which is deep enough to put them just below the frost line.

Bringing them up in spring can be cold work, but I bought my husband a wet suit and he says he enjoys it. Somehow, he never quite got around to it this year, though — which is how we discovered that Iris versicolor would get so nice and tall. They look nice as a single specimen, adding a vertical element to the numerous horizontally floating lily pads. But they also look sensational massed together for a fabulous late spring show — and the foliage lends a good, architectural note to the pond plantings all season long.

The funny thing is, I no longer grow any bearded iris — they were just too much trouble. But my iris repertoire has expanded vastly along with my ponds — and I expect it will keep on growing.

Carol is a garden writer and college professor in northeast Pennsylvania. She manages the Gardening section of Suite This article was written by a professional writer, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. Even a ditch or a wet spot in the homeowner's backyard is perfectly suited to many moisture-loving Iris species.

Water garden irises are amiable sorts that blend well with many other pondside plants, especially those that grow closer to the water surface and have delicate foliage. Parrot feather Myriophyllum aquaticum is an excellent accent plant when grown at the base of a water iris. Its finely cut, emerald-green, fluffy foliage softens the water line and contrasts well with the iris's larger, sword-shaped, architectural foliage.

Iris leaves also serve to shade smaller inhabitants, like marsh marigold Caltha palustris or candelabra primula P. Water garden irises perform well if they receive a full day of sunlight. They also grow well and bloom reliably if given at least six hours of sun. Cultivars whose flowers are white or light-colored often prefer some shade to protect their blossoms from drying out too quickly. Generally, water garden irises will not flower if sunlight drops to an average of less than four hours per day.

If an iris plant is to be placed in a partially shaded spot, morning sun is usually preferable to afternoon sun. Gentle breezes can be an aesthetic benefit to a water garden with irises, sending ripples across the water and gently nudging the iris blossoms. Too much wind, however, can cause substantial damage to iris flowers and can even reduce the height of the foliage.

Grasses planted around the pond, outside the liner, make a great windscreen. Most water irises will tolerate a range of water depths, say from moist soil to water a few inches over the crown.

Submersion within the range given will provide them with proper growing conditions. Water irises are dependent upon seasonal changes in day length and water or soil temperature to induce them to go dormant in the winter and to prompt them to start growing again in the spring. This being so, it is critical that potted water irises be brought up near the surface of the pond in the early spring where the water is warmer.

This awakens the irises from their winter slumber and causes them to begin bud formation. Irises that are planted in soil near the edge of the pond should be cleaned of mulch and debris in early spring to allow the sun's rays to warm the plant and its soil environment. Water garden irises are heavy feeders and benefit from early-spring fertilizer to supplement the soil's nutrients.

The more fertilizer they receive, the more they will grow and flower. Stop fertilizing about a month before the last frost-free date in the area, to allow the irises to harden off for the winter.

In climates without frost, withhold fertilizer once the plants show signs of going dormant. Irises are carefree plants and need minimal attention through the summer. Deadheading spent flowers will curtail the impulse of those especially energetic strains to seed themselves throughout the pond.

Other more restrained varieties benefit from deadheading simply for the sake of appearance. For the same reason, trim back older leaves as they develop a tan or brown color. Trimming off old or unsightly foliage reduces the threat of pests and diseases, another excellent reason to keep the plants well tended.

Fall cleaning of irises also prevents diseases or insects from overwintering on the plant. Generally, irises that like to grow in water year-round are easily prepared for winter's cold winds. As the foliage dies down in the fall, trim the leaves back to just an inch or so above the crown of the plant. Leave the plants in the pond, making sure that they will stay wet throughout the winter. Irises grow best in pots that are wide and shallow. The rhizomes grow close to the surface of the soil, much like German bearded irises, in more or less a straight line.

Plant the rhizome toward the edge of the pot with the growing tip pointing toward the center, to maximize the pot's space. Spread the roots out on a mound of soil, so that they are not all tangled together underneath the rhizome. Then add soil over the rhizome and growing tip. The rhizome should be underneath the soil, with the growing tip just barely below the soil surface.

Finding a pot that is at least a foot in diameter will help keep this from happening too frequently. Louisiana irises are especially prone to running and easily jump from their pots in a single season. Make sure to use a pot that is wide enough to accommodate at least a year's growth. Better yet, grow them in a large, shallow tray to avoid the necessity of replanting them in midseason.

Water garden irises prefer a soil that is high in clay, to provide structural support and to allow the plants' roots to move freely for adequate strength and nutrition. Although organic matter, such as decomposed cow manure, may be added to the soil, be very careful. In a water garden, organic matter breaks down quickly once the water temperature warms, creating salts that can burn the roots of water plants. Too much organic matter can also cause an algae bloom in the pond.

Dutch iris bulbs require a period of cold treatment at 35 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit before they will bloom. In climates with mild winters, this is best achieved in the refrigerator. Place the bulbs in a plastic self-sealing bag filled with barely damp peat moss.

The bag retains moisture during treatment and also prevents exposure to ethylene gas, which is produced by ripening fruits and vegetables in the fridge and can cause bulb rot. Keep the iris bulbs in the refrigerator for 12 weeks.

This induces a dormant period and the bulbs only sprout and flower when allowed this dormancy. For the pebble method, begin by filling the bowl with a 3-inch layer of clean pebbles or glass florist's marbles. Nestle the flat end of the bulbs in the pebbles just deep enough so they remain upright. The irises require very little room so you can space them as close as 1 inch.

Add water to the bowl until the water level sits just beneath the bottom of the bulb. The roots seek out the moisture and will penetrate the pebble layer. For a hyacinth vase, simply fill the bottom portion with water and rest the bulb in the top section. After cold treatment, the Dutch iris bulbs require a temperature between 60 and 65 degrees to begin sending up stems and buds.